This morning, before work, my brother Mike and I were able to surf my local break, Dolphin Wall, for a few hours. It was a beautiful clear morning, sunny skies, surf babes on the beach, trunkable water and nice little peelers. I was able to ride my longboard and Mike got his first taste of "big red." As the tide came up, the waves got better, the wind died and Mike and I were smiling from ear to ear. What is it about surfing that makes it so addictive? I think that the amazing combination of nature and the innate athletic skill that it takes to catch and ride moving water make surfing not just a sport, but a lifestyle. I have been blessed in my life to travel to Baja, Hawaii (multiple times), Indonesia, Australia and Fiji (see above pictures) all in the pursuit of waves. If you think about the influence that surfing has had on my life it is mindbogoling:
1. All of my friends (except Shuford) surf
2. I have NEVER lived more than a few blocks from the ocean
3. My Mom let me take Mike to Mexico when he was 17 on a surf/camping trip!
4. I will never move away from the ocean
5. I have been surfing since I was in the 7th grade! What have you been doing consistently for 21 years?
6. I competed on my high-school surf team and coached a high-school surf team.
7. In Coach House's history class I wrote my term paper on the history of surfing and got a B-
8. My earliest memories of surfing were watching my Uncle Dennis catch and ride a long wave at San Onofre and our neighbor Ralph Moore who had surfboards in his garage.
9. I caught my first wave at Ratt beach on a piece of junk board that Jeff bought for Paul at a swap meet.
10. The first time I angled (went down the line, not straight) I was riding a Joe Bark in the 7th grade.
11. The morning after my high school graduation my entire crew went down to surf Ratt beach, than went home to sleep.
12. My first real tube ride was a burnout beach in Torrance
13. I have traveled the world with a surfboard under my arm and a smile on my face!
P.S. Is all of this just a shameless excuse to post pictures of myself surfing? In the words of our favorite VP candidate who is proving "she's not a quitter" by quitting her job, YOU BETCHA!
I hope you never shred up waves in contests....always be a "soul surfer"
ReplyDeleteI like to think of surfing as my healthy obsession.
ReplyDeleteOh what a ride!! Love ya, Susan
ReplyDeleteMatt Man:
ReplyDeleteAs you know, surfing is a way of life. It's a way to connect with nature in the water. It's being in harmory with your environment. The feel of the spray, smell of the ocean, sound of the wave, the sight of a big set coming in, only those that have experienced the moment can appreciate the feeling, exileration, and the sensation.
It's funny, I remember that day at San-O. Never did I think it would make a lasting impression. I'm SO happy it did. I hope we can continue to "connect" with nature for years to come, beginning this weekend in Catalina.
I hereby proclaim, upon Matt Riley, the title of "Waterman" . Take this title seriously and live and spread the lifestyle. And when you're in Hawaii have a shaved ice.
Likewise, (code for love ya)
The Capt
Pretty nice story on your "mantra" of life. To the sea, to reconnect with nature, every day you can. It must be so peaceful just sitting out on the water, drinking in the blue sky, the saltwater in the air, the gentle rocking of the swells, the sun on your back, a light breeze blowing, catching that perfect wave for the day. And, then, to go out and do it all again, on a new day, a fresh start.
ReplyDeleteLife is Good, Denise
Next it will be time to teach the boys and me how to surf!!
ReplyDeleteThose are ALL wonderful memories I have of you growing up! I like to think our trips to Avenue E when you and Garrett were growing up gave you your love of the ocean.
ReplyDeleteThank you for encouraging Mike in his surfing. He has loved going out to catch the waves with you.
I have always been PROUD that you are a surfer and lover of the ocean, the waves and nature!! Love you, Mom
Great Post! Believe it or not, your surfing for life philosophy was a turning point for me. I'm not kidding.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if you remember this, but one day we were on our way to go out at that unnamed little right just down from Rincon, and you said something about how it reminded you of a short story or something you wrote because it was one of the rare times in life when you were doing exactly what you wanted to be doing. You weren't in class or working thinking about doing what you wanted, you were only thinking about that moment. You said that's why you were going to be a teacher because you had more control over your time and life. Sorry if I butchered that story!
Anyway, at that time I was neck deep in the Marines, the exact opposite lifestyle as you described, not really surfing much, and was headed for a commission and a 12 year contract. I was 23.
Since that day, I decided to turn down my contract, go back to school to study music, become a teacher, and somehow ended up in Hawaii where my life revolves around wind reports and buoy readings.
All that from one crappy surf session with you. I could of been a contender, but instead I became a surfer. For life!
Sounds like you're going to ruin Mikey next.