This morning, before work, my brother Mike and I were able to surf my local break, Dolphin Wall, for a few hours. It was a beautiful clear morning, sunny skies, surf babes on the beach, trunkable water and nice little peelers. I was able to ride my longboard and Mike got his first taste of "big red." As the tide came up, the waves got better, the wind died and Mike and I were smiling from ear to ear. What is it about surfing that makes it so addictive? I think that the amazing combination of nature and the innate athletic skill that it takes to catch and ride moving water make surfing not just a sport, but a lifestyle. I have been blessed in my life to travel to Baja, Hawaii (multiple times), Indonesia, Australia and Fiji (see above pictures) all in the pursuit of waves. If you think about the influence that surfing has had on my life it is mindbogoling:
1. All of my friends (except Shuford) surf
2. I have NEVER lived more than a few blocks from the ocean
3. My Mom let me take Mike to Mexico when he was 17 on a surf/camping trip!
4. I will never move away from the ocean
5. I have been surfing since I was in the 7th grade! What have you been doing consistently for 21 years?
6. I competed on my high-school surf team and coached a high-school surf team.
7. In Coach House's history class I wrote my term paper on the history of surfing and got a B-
8. My earliest memories of surfing were watching my Uncle Dennis catch and ride a long wave at San Onofre and our neighbor Ralph Moore who had surfboards in his garage.
9. I caught my first wave at Ratt beach on a piece of junk board that Jeff bought for Paul at a swap meet.
10. The first time I angled (went down the line, not straight) I was riding a Joe Bark in the 7th grade.
11. The morning after my high school graduation my entire crew went down to surf Ratt beach, than went home to sleep.
12. My first real tube ride was a burnout beach in Torrance
13. I have traveled the world with a surfboard under my arm and a smile on my face!
P.S. Is all of this just a shameless excuse to post pictures of myself surfing? In the words of our favorite VP candidate who is proving "she's not a quitter" by quitting her job, YOU BETCHA!